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Anthology offers unique experience in Little Italy PDF Print E-mail
Lifestyle - Dining
BY Gina Giacopuzzi   
Thursday, 23 April 2009 20:47

anthologyOn a recent night out at Anthology, which has officially passed the new-restaurant-survives-downtown test, I watched spring turn to summer in San Diego. Perhaps it was the fresh-tasting, locally grown fava beans and cherry tomatoes served with my salmon. Perhaps it was the smooth saxophone of the house jazz band that serenaded the other diners. Perhaps it was the young, vibrant crowd.

Whatever it was, Anthology's getting it right.

Despite the economic downturn, Anthology knows that when San Diegans invest in a night out, they want the experience to be rich, fun and classy.  For a mellower vibe than the club-y Gaslamp atmosphere, there really isn't any better place to drink a glass of Pinot Noir and hear some good music. What started as a "grandpa and grandma's jazz club", according to director of operations Michael Miller, has now hosted artists including Alanis Morisette and Jane Monheit.

"Our summer line-up's got funk, jazz, indie rock, and festival," said Miller, who is excited about the schedule. As a former jazz studies major who just happened to get into restaurants, Miller is "very invested in this music."

It's not a bad gig, really. As Miller said, high-end cuisine and top talents happen to mesh well together. He has the opportunity for creativity in the kitchen, as the menu often caters to artists' needs and changes often, although it's essentially "New Californian."  

The evening begins in a plush booth on the second of three stories that wrap around the stage, one of the best seats in the house. The 2006 Malm Cellars Pinot Noir, from the Sonoma Coast, is-- to use a fancy, sommelier term---amazing. It's deep, woody, spicy, clove-y, and yet somehow not overwhelming. We get the chicken, spinach and feta empanada, which, despite its buttery crust, is surprisingly light. I settle on the Scottish salmon, which is seared and served with the spring vegetables. I haven't tasted real fava beans since living in Italy two summers ago, and this dish does them justice.  I'm told that the salmon was previously served in a creamier sauce with mashed potatoes, but the lighter version is undoubtedly superior.

The best part of Tuesday evenings, it turns out, is that there's a half-price menu. In an effort to be sensitive to the changing economy, Anthology started offering the deal last July.

"What a better pairing than jazz and affordable food?" Miller asked.

Anthology's adding comics to the line-up, and diversifying its target audience in the meantime. The crowd depends on the genre, but "young people are finding it cooler," Miller jokes.

Anthology offers a great alternative to a plastic-cup night at Casbah. The food is satisfying but light, and the locally grown flavors shine through. The music is exactly what you'd expect of a venue with carefully thought-out acoustics and a soulful jazz singer. If I closed my eyes, I might be in New Orleans.

But I really doubt they have wine this good in New Orleans.

Anthology is located at:

1337 India Street

San Diego

619.595.0300

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